On my traveling anvil I put a layer of caulk on the bottom of the anvil and a piece of plastic wrap on the stand, then placed the anvil on it. On my 500# shop anvil the anvil is glued directly to the stand. Use any good adhesive silicone caulk to make a solid attachment. I think that you have enough weight with the anvil not to need to put sand in the legs, but it you want to go ahead. I helped a student build a stand this past Friday and we used 1/2" thick plate, we then welded 2" X1/4" bar stock around the edges to form a 1" lip to help retain tools and other objects. I like to have the horn over the single leg, but have it the way you like it. Mike, it is generally accepted that the legs should be about 22.5 degrees. Also planning on using silicone or similar between anvil and mounting plate. Question is how much angle should I cut on the legs? 15 deg? 20 deg?Ĥ. Plans include threaded plugs to add sand as ballast. My material is going to be 2" x 4" x 1/4" for the legs and 1/4" plate for feet. If I can't find one inch plate, is it okay to weld lesser thicknesses along the edges to build it up? Or will that increase noise?ģ. All agree a thick plate for mounting the anvil is essential. I wonder about mounting it so the horn goes over the single or double leg side? The anvil is weighted toward the horn and I wonder about stability.Ģ. Mostly because I prefer steel to stumps and to have another welding project.ġ. I browsed the entire anvil stand thread and decided I prefer a three legged stand. Original John Moreno before anvilbrands picked up his design. I picked up a nearly new JHM competitor anvil.
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